The Ghost on Lake Victoria: Service Failures Undermining Tanzania’s TZS 22.8 Billion Investment
By Adonis Byemelwa
Mwanza—Shortly before 9 p.m., hundreds of passengers converge on Mwanza South Port, weaving through ticket queues, document checks and security gates in anticipation of boarding the New Victoria, Tanzania’s rehabilitated passenger ferry linking Mwanza and Bukoba. The bustle at the terminal suggests a fully booked voyage.
So far, once the vessel leaves the dock and the final ticket inspection is complete, the atmosphere changes. During several recent journeys observed by this author, sizeable sections of the passenger lounges remained unoccupied, prompting travellers to question whether operational procedures rather than passenger demand are creating the appearance of congestion.
The contrast lies at the heart of growing concerns surrounding one of Tanzania’s most significant public transport investments.
The government invested approximately TZS 22.8 billion to rehabilitate the historic MV Victoria, restoring a vessel that had been out of service for years because of mechanical deterioration and safety concerns.
Reintroduced in 2020 as the New Victoria, the ferry received new propulsion engines, upgraded navigation systems, refurbished passenger accommodation and modern safety equipment. The project formed part of a wider strategy to modernise inland water transport and strengthen economic links across Lake Victoria.
For generations of residents in Kagera and Mwanza, the ferry has been more than a mode of transport. Before the region’s road network improved, it served as the principal connection for traders, students, families and patients travelling between the two regions. Many passengers therefore welcomed its return, expecting a safer, faster and more comfortable service.
Several years later, however, repeated voyages undertaken by this author and interviews with passengers suggest that while the engineering rehabilitation succeeded, operational shortcomings continue to undermine customer confidence.
Boarding begins with multiple verification stages that include ticket confirmation, identity checks, security screening and additional inspections after passengers enter the vessel. Maritime security procedures are an important safeguard, particularly on large passenger ferries.
Nevertheless, many travellers interviewed during recent voyages questioned whether the sequence of repeated inspections could be streamlined without compromising safety.
“The drama at the port gate makes you think the ship is full,” said Bungo Mayala, a Sukuma trader from Misungwi who regularly transports dried fish between Mwanza and Bukoba. “After the last checkpoint, you look around the lounges and realise there are still many empty seats. The queues seem to come more from the slow boarding process than from the number of passengers.”
During voyages observed by this author, the vessel departed with visible vacant seating in several passenger areas despite the lengthy boarding process.
Inside the ship, passengers also pointed to signs of wear that they considered inconsistent with a recently rehabilitated vessel. Some communal seating showed worn upholstery, while entertainment screens installed during the refurbishment remained switched off throughout the entire voyages observed by this author.
Although these issues do not affect navigational safety, passengers said they diminish the quality of a service funded through substantial public investment.
The strongest criticism centred on conditions in the economy-class section, where passengers alleged that access to sleeping mattresses sometimes depends on unofficial cash payments.
Economy-class tickets generally cost between TZS 21,000 and TZS 25,000, providing access to communal seating and lower-deck accommodation.
Several passengers interviewed during recent sailings alleged that they were asked to pay an additional TZS 5,000 in cash to obtain mattresses, and that no official receipts were issued.
“If you do not pay an extra 5,000 shillings, you may be told the mattresses are finished or reserved,” alleged Anatoli Mutaju, a Haya passenger travelling to Bukoba with his family. “If the payment is official, passengers should receive receipts. If it is not official, the company should investigate.”
This publication has not independently verified whether the payments described by passengers are authorised by Tanzania Shipping Company Limited (Tashico). However, similar concerns were raised independently by several travellers interviewed during the voyage.
Passengers also criticised food availability and pricing aboard the overnight service. During one voyage observed by this author, buffet staff informed passengers later in the evening that several food items had sold out. Some travellers who were unable to purchase meals expressed frustration at remaining onboard for the rest of the journey with limited alternatives.
Others questioned meal prices. “Paying 8,000 shillings for plain rice is difficult for ordinary travellers,” said Nshoma Kwilasa, a Sukuma entrepreneur. “When meals run out early, passengers who board expecting to buy food have very few options.”
The overnight timetable itself has become another source of debate. The New Victoria typically departs Mwanza around 9:00 p.m. and arrives in Bukoba early the following morning after approximately nine hours on the lake.
Many passengers interviewed said they would welcome occasional daytime sailings, arguing that daylight travel would better suit traders and families while allowing travellers to make more productive use of their time.
Competition has also intensified. Improved highways now enable buses to complete the roughly 420-kilometre Mwanza-Bukoba journey in about 6½ to 7 hours, with fares generally ranging between TZS 25,000 and TZS 28,000.
Although the road journey covers more than twice the distance of the lake crossing, several passengers interviewed said they increasingly choose buses because departure schedules are predictable and additional costs are easier to anticipate.
By comparison, first-class accommodation aboard the New Victoria typically costs between TZS 45,000 and TZS 50,000, while business class ranges from TZS 35,000 to TZS 40,000. Some economy-class passengers argued that once additional expenses such as meals and alleged unofficial mattress payments are considered, the total cost of travel can approach that of higher classes.
Despite these concerns, passengers also acknowledged significant improvements resulting from the rehabilitation. “The engineering work itself was impressive,” said Kokutona Mutajwaha, a Haya banana trader from Bukoba.
“The engines are smoother, the vibration is much lower, and the ship feels much more stable when the lake becomes rough. From a safety perspective, passengers appreciate those improvements.”
That distinction emerged repeatedly during interviews: criticism focused less on the vessel’s engineering than on customer service, operational management and passenger experience.
The New Victoria remains an important public asset supporting regional trade and mobility across Lake Victoria. Preserving that role will depend not only on maintaining its mechanical reliability but also on ensuring that passengers receive transparent, efficient and affordable service.
Questions also remain about the long-term return on the government’s rehabilitation investment. Public information confirms the scale of the restoration project, yet greater transparency regarding passenger numbers, maintenance programmes, customer complaints and operational performance would help the public assess whether the vessel is fully meeting its intended objectives.
Tashico was allowed to respond to passengers’ concerns regarding boarding procedures, onboard services, food availability and allegations of unofficial charges collected by some crew members.
Detailed questions were submitted to the company ahead of the completion of this report, but no response had been received by the time this article was finalised. The company retains the right to respond, and any future clarification or statement will be reflected accordingly.
As dawn breaks over Bukoba, passengers quietly leave the New Victoria carrying luggage, produce and memories of another overnight crossing. For many, the rehabilitation succeeded in restoring one of Tanzania’s most historic ferries to service.
Their hope now is that the same commitment invested in rebuilding the ship will be matched by equal attention to customer service, accountability and operational excellence, ensuring that the New Victoria fulfils not only its engineering promise but also the public expectations that accompanied its return to Lake Victoria.
